A1: Mine Textiles — Hallstatt and Dürrnberg Preserved Textiles

Context

The salt mines of Hallstatt and Dürrnberg bei Hallein in Austria have yielded the largest corpus of prehistoric textile finds in Europe: over 700 individual textile fragments spanning approximately 1500-400 BC. The preservative action of salt, constant underground temperature, and absence of light have maintained fibres, dyes, and weave structures in remarkable condition. The collection is held primarily at the Naturhistorisches Museum Wien (NHM Wien), where Karina Grömer leads textile research. Weave types documented include tabby (plain weave), 2/2 twill (the most common), pointed twill, herringbone twill, basket weave, and tablet-woven bands. Dyestuffs identified through HPLC analysis include weld (Reseda luteola), woad (Isatis tinctoria), iron-tannin black, orchil (a lichen-derived purple), scentless chamomile, and possibly madder-family plants. Fibre types are predominantly wool, with rarer occurrences of linen (flax) and plant bast (nettle). Key publications include Grömer et al. 2013 (Textiles from Hallstatt, Archaeolingua), Bichler et al. 2005 (BAR International), and Grömer 2016 (The Art of Prehistoric Textile Making).

Visual Reference Catalogue

Weave Structure Close-ups (NHM Wien Collection)

  1. Checkerboard pattern textile from Hallstatt salt mine
    • URL: http://objekte.nhm-wien.ac.at/objekt/th434/ob62
    • Source: Naturhistorisches Museum Wien, online object database
    • Description: Karomuster (checkerboard pattern) textile fragment from the Salzbergwerk Hallstatt, showing two-colour warp-and-weft patterning in wool. Photograph by A. Rausch. Iron Age, 800-400 BC.
    • Quality: ★★★
  2. Coloured patterned border band (Borte) from Hallstatt salt mine
    • URL: http://objekte.nhm-wien.ac.at/objekt/th434/ob60
    • Source: Naturhistorisches Museum Wien, online object database
    • Description: Farbig gemusterte Borte — a tablet-woven band decorated with meander and triangle motifs. Wool reinforced with horsehair, originally sewn onto a sleeve. Still-visible polychrome colours. Iron Age.
    • Quality: ★★★
  3. Wool twill textiles HallTex 211 and HallTex 275
    • URL: https://www.researchgate.net/figure/Wool-twill-textiles-from-Hallstatt-Austria-1500-1200-BC-HallTex-211-and-275-C-NHM_fig3_322655582
    • Source: ResearchGate / NHM Vienna (photo by A. Rausch)
    • Description: Close-up photographs of two wool twill textile fragments from Hallstatt, dated 1500-1200 BC (Bronze Age phase). Shows 2/2 twill weave structure clearly. Published in academic paper on visual analysis and grouping of Hallstatt textiles.
    • Quality: ★★★
  4. Seams and hems from Hallstatt
    • URL: https://www.researchgate.net/figure/Seams-and-hems-from-Hallstatt-Photo-C-NHM-Vienna_fig4_272271949
    • Source: ResearchGate / NHM Vienna (photo copyright NHM Vienna)
    • Description: Detail photographs showing prehistoric sewing techniques — whip stitch, slip stitch, and decorative seams including a blue-and-white decorative seam. From Grömer/Rösel-Mautendorfer research on Nähtechnik.
    • Quality: ★★★
  5. Recycled textile HallTex 97
    • URL: https://www.researchgate.net/figure/Recycled-textile-in-Hallstatt-Austria-HallTex-97-C-Natural-History-Museum-Vienna_fig6_333496342
    • Source: ResearchGate / Natural History Museum Vienna
    • Description: Photograph of a recycled textile fragment from the Hallstatt salt mine showing evidence of reuse and patching. Demonstrates the value placed on textiles and their secondary use as cleaning cloths or patches in the mine.
    • Quality: ★★
  6. Hallstatt sample HallTex 123 (NHM 89832), green yarn fibre analysis
    • URL: https://www.researchgate.net/figure/Hallstatt-sample-HallTex-123-NHM-89832-green-yarn-distribution-of-the-fibre-diameters_fig20_257155193
    • Source: ResearchGate / NHM Vienna
    • Description: Microscopic analysis image of green-dyed yarn from HallTex 123, showing fibre diameter distribution. Demonstrates analytical methods used on Hallstatt textiles. Inventory number NHM 89832.
    • Quality: ★★ (technical/microscopic rather than visual display)
  7. Hallstatt sample HallTex 63 (NHM 75947), weft yarn detail
    • URL: https://www.researchgate.net/figure/Hallstatt-sample-HallTex-63-NHM-75947-weft-single-z-yarn-distribution-of-the-fibre_fig18_257155193
    • Source: ResearchGate / NHM Vienna
    • Description: Microscopic detail of single z-spun weft yarn from HallTex 63, showing fibre structure. Inventory number NHM 75947.
    • Quality: ★★ (technical/microscopic)

Tablet-Woven Bands

  1. Tablet-woven band HallTex 152 — research and close-up
    • URL: https://hibernaatio.blogspot.com/2016/09/new-research-on-hallstatt-3-tablet.html
    • Source: Mervi Pasanen (textile researcher), blog post documenting research visit and close-up photographs
    • Description: Detailed blog post with close-up photographs of HallTex 152, the famous tablet-woven band from Hallstatt with lozenge-and-cross pattern. 1.4 cm wide, woven with thin plied woollen yarns in yellow, green, and brown using 10 tablets in pebble weave technique. Iron Age, 800-400 BC.
    • Quality: ★★
  2. New tablet-woven band discovery (2019 excavation)
    • URL: https://www.academia.edu/67716125/Knowledge_sharing_a_newly_found_2_700_year_old_tablet_woven_band_from_Hallstatt_Austria_Archaeological_Textiles_Review_No_63
    • Source: Academia.edu / Archaeological Textiles Review No. 63 (Grömer et al.)
    • Description: Publication documenting a newly discovered ~34 cm long tablet-woven band from the 2019 Iron Age excavation campaign in the Hallstatt salt mine. Includes photographs of the find. Dated 800-400 BC.
    • Quality: ★★★ [🔒 full PDF may require institutional access]
  3. Tablet-woven ribbons from Hallstatt — experimental results
    • URL: https://www.academia.edu/11916994/Tablet_woven_Ribbons_from_the_prehistoric_Salt_mines_at_Hallstatt_Austria_results_of_some_experiments
    • Source: Academia.edu / Grömer et al.
    • Description: Academic paper with photographs comparing original Hallstatt tablet-woven ribbons with experimental reconstructions. Shows triangle, fret, and diamond patterns. Includes close-up images of originals and replicas side by side.
    • Quality: ★★★ [🔒 full figures may require institutional access]

Dye and Colour Research

  1. “Colours from yesteryears” — Hallstatt textile dye showcase
    • URL: https://www.kennisvoorcollecties.nl/en/showcases-en/hallstatt/
    • Source: Kennis voor Collecties (Knowledge for Collections), Netherlands
    • Description: Web showcase with photographs of dyed Hallstatt textile fragments showing preserved colours (yellow, green, olive-green, brown, reddish-brown, blue, black). Explains three dyeing methods: direct dyeing, fermentation dyeing, and mordant dyeing. Includes images of analytical results and colour samples.
    • Quality: ★★★
  2. “Colours of Hallstatt” exhibition catalogue — NHM Vienna 2012
    • URL: https://www.academia.edu/12343969/Exhibition_Catalogue_Colours_of_Hallstatt_Textiles_Connecting_Science_and_Art_at_the_Natural_History_Museum_Vienna_2012
    • Source: Academia.edu / NHM Vienna exhibition catalogue (Grömer et al.)
    • Description: Full exhibition catalogue PDF from the 2012 NHM Vienna exhibition “Colours of Hallstatt — Textiles Connecting Science and Art.” Contains photographs of textile fragments, dye analysis results, and contemporary art inspired by Hallstatt textiles.
    • Quality: ★★★
  3. Coloured Hallstatt Textiles: 3500 Year-old Techniques
    • URL: https://www.researchgate.net/publication/275330007_Coloured_Hallstatt_Textiles_3500_Year-old_Textile_and_Dyeing_Techniques_and_their_Contemporary_Application
    • Source: ResearchGate (Hofmann-de Keijzer et al.)
    • Description: Academic publication with colour photographs of Hallstatt textile fragments showing preserved dye colours, and experimental dye reproductions. Documents use of weld, woad, iron-tannin, and orchil.
    • Quality: ★★★ [🔒 full PDF may require institutional access]
  4. Reproducing colourful woven bands from Hallstatt
    • URL: https://www.researchgate.net/publication/275897796_Reproducing_colourful_woven_bands_from_the_Iron_Age_salt_mine_of_Hallstatt_in_Austria_An_interdisciplinary_approach_to_acquire_knowledge_of_prehistoric_dyeing_technology
    • Source: ResearchGate / Journal of Archaeological Science: Reports (Hofmann-de Keijzer et al. 2015)
    • Description: Paper documenting experimental reproduction of Hallstatt dyed tablet-woven bands. Photographs of original fragments alongside dye-reproduced replicas using woad, weld, and chamomile. Shows how copper from broken bronze mining tools may have modified original colours.
    • Quality: ★★★ [🔒 full text may require purchase]

NHM Wien Research Pages (Primary Museum Source)

  1. NHM Hallstatt Textile Research hub (Textilforschung)
    • URL: https://www.nhm-wien.ac.at/hallstatt/textilforschung
    • Source: Naturhistorisches Museum Wien
    • Description: Central research page for Hallstatt textile research. Contains navigation to sub-pages on textile qualities, colours (Farben), sewing techniques (Nähtechnik), functions, and mine textile finds. Includes illustrative photographs throughout.
    • Quality: ★★
  2. NHM Hallstatt — Textile Qualities (Textilqualitäten)
    • URL: https://www.nhm-wien.ac.at/hallstatt/textilforschung/textilqualitaeten
    • Source: Naturhistorisches Museum Wien
    • Description: Sub-page documenting the range of textile qualities found in Hallstatt, from coarse carrying-sack fabrics to extremely fine clothing textiles. Includes photographs of different textile grades.
    • Quality: ★★
  3. NHM Hallstatt — Colours (Farben)
    • URL: https://www.nhm-wien.ac.at/hallstatt/textilforschung/textilqualitaeten/farben
    • Source: Naturhistorisches Museum Wien
    • Description: Sub-page specifically on colours and dyes of Hallstatt textiles. Documents blue, yellow, green, and other colours with photographs and dye analysis information.
    • Quality: ★★
  4. NHM Hallstatt — Sewing Techniques (Nähtechnik)
    • URL: https://www.nhm.at/hallstatt/textilforschung/textilqualitaeten/naehtechnik
    • Source: Naturhistorisches Museum Wien
    • Description: Sub-page on sewing techniques identified in Hallstatt textiles: whip stitch, slip stitch, running stitch, stem stitch, festoon stitch, buttonhole stitch. Documents evidence of planned tailoring with curved seams and multi-piece garment construction.
    • Quality: ★★
  5. NHM Hallstatt — Functions of Mine Textile Finds
    • URL: https://www.nhm-wien.ac.at/hallstatt/textilforschung/funktionen/funktionen_bergwerksfunde
    • Source: Naturhistorisches Museum Wien
    • Description: Sub-page on the functional classification of textile finds from the mine — cleaning cloths, clothing fragments, carrying sack material, wrapping material. Includes photographs of different functional categories.
    • Quality: ★★
  6. NHM Hallstatt — Textiles from Burial Site
    • URL: https://www.nhm.at/hallstatt/en/textiles/use/textiles_from_burial_site
    • Source: Naturhistorisches Museum Wien
    • Description: Page documenting textile remains preserved through contact with bronze objects in graves from the Hallstatt cemetery. Different preservation context from mine finds.
    • Quality: ★★

Comprehensive Blog and Academic Reviews

  1. Art Quill Studio — Hallstatt Textiles Art Review (Marie-Therese Wisniowski)
    • URL: https://artquill.blogspot.com/2013/01/hallstatt-textiles-art-review-marie.html
    • Source: Art Quill Studio blog (Marie-Therese Wisniowski)
    • Description: Extensive blog review with numerous photographs sourced from NHM Wien and academic publications. Covers weave types (tabby, twill, pointed twill, herringbone), tablet-woven bands, S/Z-spun thread effects, and colour preservation. Well-sourced with image credits.
    • Quality: ★★
  2. Karina Grömer — Hallstatt Textiles papers on Academia.edu
    • URL: https://nhm-wien.academia.edu/KarinaGroemer/Papers%20(Hallstatt%20Textiles)
    • Source: Academia.edu / Karina Grömer (NHM Wien)
    • Description: Full collection of Grömer’s academic papers on Hallstatt textiles, many with downloadable PDFs containing high-quality photographs and diagrams of textile fragments, weave structures, and dye analyses.
    • Quality: ★★★ (variable by paper)
  3. “Textiles from Hallstatt” monograph (Grömer, Kern, Reschreiter, Rösel-Mautendorfer)
    • URL: https://www.academia.edu/12390839/Textiles_from_Hallstatt_Weaving_Culture_in_Bronze_and_Iron_Age_Salt_Mines
    • Source: Academia.edu / Archaeolingua 2013
    • Description: The definitive monograph on Hallstatt mine textiles. Contains extensive photographic plates of textile fragments, weave structure diagrams, dye analyses, and statistical data on the corpus of 700+ fragments. Bilingual German-English.
    • Quality: ★★★ [🔒 full monograph may have limited access]
  4. “Ancient textiles — recent knowledge” multidisciplinary project
    • URL: https://www.academia.edu/12712558/Ancient_textiles_recent_knowledge_a_multidisciplinary_research_project_on_textile_fragments_from_the_prehistoric_salt_mine_of_Hallstatt
    • Source: Academia.edu / Grömer et al.
    • Description: Paper documenting the multidisciplinary HallTex project investigating ~240 Bronze and Iron Age textiles from Hallstatt. Contains photographs and analytical images of spinning, weaving, sewing, and dyeing techniques.
    • Quality: ★★★
  5. “Visual analysis and grouping of the Hallstatt textiles”
    • URL: https://www.researchgate.net/publication/360082147_Visual_analysis_and_grouping_of_the_Hallstatt_textiles
    • Source: ResearchGate
    • Description: Paper on systematic visual categorisation of Hallstatt textiles by quality, weave type, and colour. Contains photographs and classification diagrams.
    • Quality: ★★★
  6. “Linen twills from the Hallstatt salt mine re-dated”
    • URL: https://www.academia.edu/45150596/Linen_twills_from_the_Hallstatt_salt_mine_re_dated_Archaeological_Textiles_Review_62_2020_164_169
    • Source: Academia.edu / Archaeological Textiles Review 62 (2020)
    • Description: Paper on re-dating of linen (flax) twill fragments from Hallstatt — an unusual fibre type in the predominantly wool corpus. Includes photographs of the linen fragments.
    • Quality: ★★★
  7. Iron-Age Finger-Loop Braiding from Hallstatt
    • URL: https://www.academia.edu/24657273/Iron_Age_Finger_Loop_Braiding_Finds_from_the_Hallstatt_Salt_Mine_In_Archaeological_Textiles_Review_57_2015_33_40
    • Source: Academia.edu / Archaeological Textiles Review 57 (2015)
    • Description: Paper on finger-loop braided cords from the Hallstatt mine — a different textile technique from weaving. Includes photographs of braided cord fragments.
    • Quality: ★★★
  8. “Tablet weaves and more: textile news from Hallstatt” (2024/2025)
    • URL: https://www.academia.edu/127029790/Tablet_weaves_and_more_textile_news_from_Hallstatt
    • Source: Academia.edu / Grömer et al. (recent publication)
    • Description: Recent paper with newly discovered textile finds from ongoing Hallstatt excavations, including new tablet-woven bands. Contains up-to-date photographs of recent discoveries.
    • Quality: ★★★

Dürrnberg Textiles

  1. Micro Analysis on Hallstatt Textiles: Colour and Condition
    • URL: https://www.academia.edu/12917670/Micro_Analysis_on_Hallstatt_Textiles_Colour_and_Condition
    • Source: Academia.edu / Microchimica Acta (Springer)
    • Description: Paper on microscopic and chemical analysis of Hallstatt and Dürrnberg textile fragments. Includes microscopic photographs of weave structures (2/2 twill and tabby from Dürrnberg). Documents Dürrnberg fragment 1 (2/2 twill, wool, warp 11/weft 12) and fragment 2 (tabby, wool, 9/9 count), La Tene A dating.
    • Quality: ★★★ [🔒 institutional access may be required for full text]

NHM Wien Exhibition and 3D Resources

  1. “Colours of Hallstatt” NHM Wien exhibition page (Hallstattfarben)
    • URL: https://www.nhm-wien.ac.at/hallstattfarben
    • Source: Naturhistorisches Museum Wien
    • Description: Exhibition page for “Hallstattfarben” / Colours of Hallstatt exhibition at NHM Wien. Contains exhibition photographs and textile imagery.
    • Quality: ★★
  2. NHM Wien Hallstatt carrying sack page (Tragsäcke) — related textile find
    • URL: https://www.nhm.at/hallstatt/bergwerk/bronzezeit/transportablauf/tragsaecke
    • Source: Naturhistorisches Museum Wien
    • Description: Page on the cowhide carrying sacks (Tragsäcke) from the Bronze Age mine. Five near-intact bags found, each able to carry 30 kg of salt. Cowhide with wooden stiffening strips. Related textile technology.
    • Quality: ★★
  3. BOKU Wien — HallTex dyeing project page
    • URL: https://forschung.boku.ac.at/en/projects/6838
    • Source: University of Natural Resources and Life Sciences, Vienna (BOKU)
    • Description: Project page for the interdisciplinary HallTex dyeing research project. Documents analytical methods (optical microscopy, SEM-EDX, HPLC-PDA) applied to 68 Hallstatt textile samples. Identifies woad, saffron, Rubiaceae, tannins, weld, and chamomile dyes.
    • Quality: ★★

Search Queries Used

English

  • “Hallstatt textile” museum photograph
  • “Hallstatt Gewebe” NHM Wien
  • “Salzbergwerk textile” preserved
  • “Hallstatt weave” twill tabby
  • “prehistoric textile” Hallstatt salt mine
  • nhm-wien.ac.at Hallstatt textile
  • Dürrnberg textile fragments
  • “Karina Grömer” Hallstatt textile photograph weave structure
  • Hallstatt tablet weaving band HallTex photograph close-up NHM
  • europeana Hallstatt textile fragment preserved salt mine
  • Hallstatt Dürrnberg textile fragment photograph close-up weave twill tabby
  • Hallstatt mine preserved textile dyed photograph color wool fragment salt
  • Hallstatt dye technique orchil weld woad iron tannin indigo textile analysis photograph
  • NHM Wien Hallstatt Nähtechnik sewing seam textile technique photograph research
  • artquill.blogspot.com Hallstatt textiles photographs weave patterns
  • kennisvoorcollecties.nl Hallstatt dye colours textiles photographs
  • researchgate Hallstatt textile figure photograph weave HallTex NHM Vienna
  • NHM Wien objekte Hallstatt coloured border band Salzbergwerk Borte textile

German

  • Hallstattkultur Textilien museum
  • Hallstatt Gewebe NHM Wien
  • Salzbergwerk Textil
  • Köperbindung Hallstatt
  • Tabletgewebe Hallstatt
  • Brettchenweberei Hallstatt
  • Karomuster Salzbergwerk Hallstatt
  • Farbig gemusterte Borte Hallstatt
  • Hallstatt Nähtechnik
  • Textilforschung NHM Wien Hallstatt
  • Textilqualitäten Hallstatt

Cross-References

  • See A2_costume_reconstruction.md for how these textile fragments inform dress reconstruction.
  • See B4_textile_tools.md for the spindle whorls, loom weights, and tablet-weaving equipment used to produce these textiles.
  • See B1_salt_mining_tools.md for the cowhide carrying sacks and other leather/organic finds from the same mine contexts.
  • See A7_footwear.md for leather shoes preserved in the same salt mine environment.

Gaps and Notes

  • Direct Europeana search for Hallstatt textiles did not return individual textile fragment object records with images; Europeana aggregates from NHM Wien but the textile objects do not appear well-indexed on the Europeana portal individually.
  • ARACHNE (arachne.dainst.org) did not return specific Hallstatt textile object records in search results.
  • Prometheus Bildarchiv was not directly searchable via web search; institutional access is likely required. [🔒 institutional access required]
  • Dürrnberg textile photographs are much scarcer online than Hallstatt mine textiles. The Keltenmuseum Hallein does not appear to have an online collection database with textile images. This is a significant gap.
  • Individual NHM Wien object database entries with high-resolution photographs exist (e.g., objekte.nhm-wien.ac.at) but the database appears to have limited indexing for external search engines; only the checkerboard textile and coloured border band were findable via web search.
  • Bronze Age vs Iron Age textiles: Most visually documented textiles online are from the Iron Age phase (800-400 BC). The Bronze Age carrying-sack textiles (pre-800 BC) are less well represented in online visual sources, though they are documented in the Grömer et al. 2013 monograph.

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Maptism — Hallstatt Culture Research Project

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